I stepped out my door yesterday evening to find a sky of the gentlest, most kindly gray imaginable, every edge and angle softened by a pale, pearled light. Come sunset though, that mild sky had leapt up into a wildly riotous shout of color, the sharp black outlines of the pines at the end of […]

The lone man stared at us as we meandered through the old stone village. We had been down these ancient paths at other times, but each time deserves another look at history. This grouping of homes, pulled from the earth in the form of rough-hewn rock and aged timber is known as Espinoso de Compludo. […]

The first time I saw him, his face was shadowed by the brim of a baseball cap. His shoulders were hunched. His shorts and T-shirt were loose. He lifted my suitcase and garment bag out of his parents’ van, and I thought, “Jock.” That evening we sat across the table from each other at a […]